Watering Guide

There is no one size fits all answer to how much you should water. However below we will cover some things to know and some helpful tips.

Watering Technique
It’s best to mimic the kind of watering the species would receive in the wild. Hand watering, microspray emitters or low-volume sprinklers mimic natural rainfall and coastal fog. Avoid watering directly against the crown (the main stem of the plant at the soil surface) to prevent rot and disease.

Drip irrigation is not usually recommended, however it is okay for riparian plants. If drip irrigation is required, ensure that the emitter is not located directly at the base of the plant.

Generally, water deeply and infrequently. Apply water slowly allowing the water to percolate at least 18in. deep. If you can, set up a clock to schedule your irrigations for 4am or 5am when the soil is at its coolest, or, at least on the coolest days, particularly in the summer.

Watering Area & Depth
Focus on watering the area around the outer circumference of the branches and beyond. Water the soil to a depth of at least 18in. This encourages roots to grow outward and downward, creating an extensive root system which is essential for stability and drought resistance.

A close-up of a plant with soft, silver-green leaves and delicate pale pink flowers

Frequency of Watering
Taking into consideration the natural setting of the species will help give you an idea of how much water the species needs.

A good rule of thumb:

First two months: About once a week, check the soil moisture about 2-3” below the surface. If the soil feels dry at this depth, water thoroughly. If it feels moist, wait before watering again. Allow the soil to dry out between watering.

After 2-3 months: Try to extend irrigations to once every 10-17 days.

Length of Establishment

The time it takes for California native plants to become established can vary widely depending on the species, planting conditions, and care. Generally, the rule of thumb for most 1 gallon or 5 gallon native plants is as follows:

Perennials and shrubs: About 1 year to establish. Sometime 2 years if planted later in the planting season.
Trees: Usually around 2 to 3 years to fully establish
Fall or early winter planting: the establishment period runs through that fall, winter and spring

Summer Dry: Ceanothus and Manzanita

Ceanothus (California lilac) and Arctostaphylos (manzanita) are prone to disease when watered during the summer months. Plant them in fall or early winter to get established before summer arrives. (Ceanothus ‘Ray Hartman’ and Arctostaphylos ‘Howard McMinn’ are less sensitive and more garden tolerant than others)

During Establishment

A front yard garden with a variety of drought-tolerant plants, including green shrubs, grasses, and succulents, growing alongside a house with a gray exterior, creating a lush, low-maintenance landscape

From November through April
This is the active growing season for many of our native specices. This is when the plants are naturally receiving rainfall and soil temperatures are cool. Water the plants as needed. In exceptionally dry years, supplement with extra water once a week.

Summer
Aim to reduce or eliminate watering during the summer months to encourage drought tolerance, with exceptions for:

Aesthetics: for a lusher appearance and longer blooms, supplemental summer watering is beneficial for some species
Coastal plants: which are accustomed to fog or summer rain showers, may require light sprinkling
Desert plants: may benefit from summer water mimicking natural rain showers